..........WE ARE NOT MEETING AT THE CARPENTERS TAVERN - SEE BELOW FOR DETAILS..................
Update...
Head and block went back to Andersons. Frank calculated the compression ratio and the amount of squish (see end of this post for explanation) and I picked it all up again on Monday. Stripped the block again on Tuesday night and sorted all the parts out ready to go back to Andersons for final; block skimming (to obtain the correct squish), modification to me new ali flywheel to fit the clutch plate and a full engine balance. I should have it all back on Saturday. That will be it. I have everything to do a full build of the engine.
Meanwhile the dry sump parts have arrived. I have sorted where everything is going and how to plumb it, I think. The oil tank will be kept under the bonnet so it will be a compact installation.
When the engine is built it will be back to Andersons for dynoing.
Not long now.
SQUISH brief explanation
Also important is the squish areas, for best power. A 'squish area' is a part of the combustion shamber that is made to very nearly come into contact with the piston when the piston is at top dead centre. There's usually less than 0.030" (0.75mm) clearance in these areas in such cases. What they do is cause the combusting gasses to rapidly travel towards the centre of the combustion chamber (or where ever intended) and increase turbulence, thus increasing the combustion rate. It's increasingly important as the revs build up, so more attention is needed. Ford/Cosworth experimented extensively with so-called open and closed combustion chambers, and found that a well designed closed chamber always made more power. (In a naturally aspirated engine, at least).
For more detail use Google and search on squish and engine.
All the bits went to Andersons on Wednesday, I had a phone call Thursday afternoon that it was all done. How quick was that???
I now have everything to build the engine, finally.
Frank is away in the USA from Tuesday for two weeks so I plan to have the engine ready to be dynoed for when he comes back.
I've managed to get quite a bit done on the Car now.. The Engine bay is complete, the dash and centre console are made but need installing, I've got to finish the Fuse and relay boxes then install them, and plug in the Engine bay & boot looms plus the console and dash looms (I've made it all with multi-connector plus to allow easy removal etc.)
So apart from the Electrics, left to complete is: Rear Brake lines, Seats, Belts, Fire Extingisher, external pull cords, Suspension set up, 4-Link set up, Windscreen, door windows start & run in the Engine !!
(I'm sure there will be a list of "tweaking" jobs as well.....)
Nick
The bottom end of the engine is now all built up and complete except for finally bolting on the dry sump pan. All mods to make the dry sump pump fit are done and I just need to order the fittings and pipe work to get it all plumbed in. I have dummy built the head so I can work out how much need skimming off the top of the new valve stems. This has to be done so that the cam clearances can be set correctly using only shims between 2.5mm and 3.3mm. At the moment all the shims need to be very close to 2.5mm to get any clearance at all. As I have loads of 3mm shims I guess it should be easy to work out how much to remove off the stems. These shims cost about £8 each from Toyota!!!!
By the way Nick it is very noticable by the amount of emails and Forum posts that you have made today that your are taking a well earned rest from Alex giving it this and have gone back at work.
Yes amazing how much more rallying related items I can get done at work .... perhaps tyhe motivation to work might reappear soon !
Alan, I think you said you aren't using stainless for the dry sump fittings, but if you are I have a few bits & pieces + Hose left over which might be able to help and cheap.....
The head assembly is now all shimmed up and complete. I have made the sump gasket and have purchased new bolts. The head will be on this weekend and the dry sump pan will be finally bolted on as well. With any luck I will get the cam timing done and then it will be ready to go to Andersons to be dynoed.
Let's hope it doesn't throw another rod!!!!!
Engine all built up complete. Off to Andersons on Saturday morning for dynoing next week.
189bhp - 135ftlb tourque
Only tested up to 7900rpm as that is where the limiter was set on the new OMEX ignition software "starter map" which was a shame because I would have set it to 8500rpm. The bhp was still climbing when it hit the limiter so it is actually more than 189bhp.
Great news, more bhp, good torque, good oil pressure and the con rods still inside the block!!!!
Full details after I have collected the engine from Andersons.
so up the the Rev limiter and maybe throttle bodies for 9000rpm reving screamer ?
I'm not familier with these graphs but the Torque looks pretty even across the rev range, is that good ?
It's a real shame that frank did not phone me to check what the rev limit should be. It is also a shame that I did not remember to tell him when I dropped the engine off in the first place. I had thought about it before.
Whetever, it is too late now. I guess I should have put steel rods in (just another £800) and I could have revved it forever.
Looking at the graph it has just about peaked at 190bhp and I am sure it would have dropped off in the low 8000's of revs so I am sure it will be OK.
Torque looks good to me. A fairly straight line peaking at 135ftlbs at 6800 rpm. The nice bit is that from about 5000rpm to 8000rpm it does not drop below 124ftlbs.
I guess I just have to rev the balls out of it to get the best out of the engine. Hope that dry sump works!!!!!
After long discussions with Pace who supplied the Dry Sump system and sending them loads of photos we have come up with the best way to do the plumbing. All the parts have been quoted and I just have to phone with my credit card details on Monday.
I hope I can get it all running before Christmas.
The engine is now running. The Dry Sump was a bit of a plumbing nightmare with it all being under the bonnet but it was still better than mounting the tank in the boot.
I still have some suspension bits to clean and re assemble, some wiring to do and the suspension needs to be completely re tracked but it should be back on the road over Christmas sometime or maybe after 1st January if I want to save on Road Tax.
Any plans over Christmas Nick?
Whoopee......it's back on the road.
Testing/training booked for 22 Jan at the Forest Experience with Mark Higgins as instructor (with Kit and Tim in the new Fiesta), Wyedean on 9 Feb.
Well I'm almost there ... I filled the dry sump tank up with oil, disconnected the feed pipe on the pump and oil was soon flowing over me and the floor ! reconnected and started turning the pump by hand (actually due to limited access I uesd and old cam belt and laid on the floor turning by pulling on the belt) and started turning the pump by hand. I could here the oil going throigh the pipes and the air being pushed out ahead of it however after a while I had oil dripping on me again ... I check the joints and all was ok then I noticed the oil coming from the remote filter housing ... There was a crack on the fitting where the oil temp sender is connected - What a numpty, I had over tightened the fitting and cracked the casting! So new remote filter head ordered and it should be here ready for the weekend when I hope to have the engine running.. I'm amazed at the pressure the pump creates just by turning by hand !
Most other things are sorted, main activites left are : get new windscreen wiper motor and fit, bleed brakes, connect h/b cables, check tracking, set up rear axle geometry, fit windscreen and door windows..... and go to Motordrive for a Seat fitting, order & fit.
The seats are probably going to be the influencing factor now, I will not get to Motordrive for a couple of weeks so it's going to be Feb before it's ready for an MoT, then hopefully get a testing day in Feb ready for either Smeatharpe or Caerwent in March (or both!)
A more productive day, ignoring the "advise" of Sarah I tried to ignore my cold and crack on, the end result is it is ready to be filled with Fuel and Water and then try to start it ....
The Dry sump system in the end took about 12/13 Litres of Oil when turning the pump by hand we had a steady 40psi and peaked at 60 psi ! we also had the rocker cover off and it was pleaseing to see a steady and strong stream of oil coming from the spray bar and over the Cam lobes
In hindsight perhaps I should of listened to Sarah as after a day in the Garage I now feel crap again, so we will se if I have the courage (to ignore Sarah again, that is) to venture back down there again tomorrow.....
Ar*e, Ar*e, Ar*e, Ar*e and Ar*e.......
Started no problem and got it running, noticed the oil pressure is dropping, and then realised I had water in the oil and oil in the Water.
Taken the head off and you can quite clearly see the cylinders blowing / leaking on 3 of the cylinders, possible thoughts so far:
So I will be ordering a new head gasket and myself and Steve will rebuild later this week !!!
A discussion with Frank Anderson highlighted another potential problem, as the head has been skimmed and the block decked it could be that the ARP Studs are too long and the nuts could be tightening against the shoulder rather than the head....
Some standard stretch bolts have been ordered (Frank advises he never uses ARP on Pinto even engines running at 14:1 compresion ratio) and this Friday we will be rebuilding and trying again !
We've put the head back on using "normal" stretch head bolts, as advised by Frank, following the tightening instructions burton power issue with the bolts - torque to 40lbft wait 5 mins then 90deg (I needed the 24" breaker bar to get the 90deg!)
Started the engine no probs, it runs smoothly and is very responsive ... when idling at 800rpm oil pressure is about 45-50 psi we took the engine to 3000 rpm and oil pressure rose to over 60psi ... it sounds great (better than ever before) lots of induction noise upfront with none of the knocking we had before and as I didn't have the back box on (just the straight pipe & cherry bomb) the exhaust was sounding fantatstic !!!
next steps: off to Motordrive this Friday (1st Feb) to sort out seats, I have a few other finishing items, the main one being the accurate set up of the 4 links etc and respray the bonnet and boot, the plan (or wish) being to hav ethe car ready to go for when the seats arrive....
Good news Nick. I hope that the effort required to get the 90 degrees was not due to the bolts bottoming out!!!!!
Our 306 survived the testing last Monday with no problems. However when I removed the sump guard there was a bit of engine oil around the clutch actuating lever so there is some oil in the bell housing. This means that the gearbox will have to come out so I can see where the oil is coming from. Bug*er!
Ok, so it's just another Escort ... Engine bay of my Mk1 showing dry sump system and book tank etc... Must fabricate a guard for the fly wheel, now teh RS sump has gone it's a little exposed!
Well the seats have arrived from Motordrive so there's nothing stopping me from cracking on and finishing it .....
Aprart from time that is !
Well......
I'm with laptop & wireless broadband in the workshop and I have just driven the car out of the Workshop, along teh lane and back... simling from ear to ear
Full report/update later tonight / tomorrow .....
Watch out for those over enthusiastic Bristol police
Well done Nick I am glad you are "...simling from ear to ear".
I went no where near the public Highway, especially when it is without windscreen, door windows, bonnet & boot !! stayed on an entirly private lane....
as for the spelling .. the excitment obviously impacted my typing ! obviously I meant sliming....
Ok, so left to go for the MoT ... Windscreen wipers & Windscreen, Bonnet, Boot, Windows installed on the doors, catch tank, number plate and bleed the brakes again and a good wash....
Left to go Rallying... bolt on door bars, plug a few front firewall holes, co driver's seat & foot rest & Harness, Foot operated codriver horn, intercom, hand held extingisher, mud flaps, sump guard, rear Towing eye, roll cage padding, door squares and helmet net
..... and run the engine in some where away from the rozzers
The Engine sounds great and feels good (not taken it over 4500rpm), the exhaust seems quiet and lots of induction noise, however that might have something to do with not having a bonnet on at present !
The suspension didn't seem as hard as I was expecting (there appears to be very little give in the rear end!) but then I didn't go over 10/15mph. although it still feels like a go-kart !
Ideally I'd like to get a test day in some time in the next 4/6 weeks but that's looking unlikely (finding an affordable and available venue in the timescale) so I'm hoping to do Down Ampney at the end of May in preperation for Caerwent in June.....
And finally it has an MoT !!!!!
just convince Sarah now to let me put an entry in for EMCOS....
How did the carb balancing go Nick if you have had a chance to do it yet?
I shall be going down the garage in the next hour to do it....
Ended up working all day yesterday (apart from the brief breaks to go on the forums !)
I am really pleased with the car now the carbs are balanced...
It's hard to keep the revs down as it just wants to go......
Overall I am extremely pleased with the car, the Engine revs well and pulls so well, follwoing EMCOS there are 4 things we need to adress...
1. Front needs to be raised (adjustable struts so easy enough)
2. I need to change the 5.1 CWP to a 4.6 we ran out of speed far to easily spending a fair bit of time on the rev limiter in 5th
3. The LSD "loosened off" quickly during the day so this needs to be checked and set up correctly
4. the big one... The 4-link to chasis bolts on the bottom links worked their way loose,it appears that the captive/welded on not worked it's way loose (I'm not sure how they were originally done but we have devised a better way to fix it). Luckily Noddy had offered to Service for us and came up with an innovative way to keep us going at EMCOS, "bashed" the handle off of a screw driver and hammered it into the where the bolt should be ... worked a treat and didn't move all day.
So bring on Caerwent in 3 weeks time !
---The-Fat-Albert Stages---28 October 2012...........